Sunday Aug 18
It was time for a more relaxing pace, especially after another hectic week and a busy Saturday. We left the Gem just after 10 and slipped through town easily heading north towards Thika, a town best known as the setting for the book and BBC series “The Flame Trees of Thika”. It was only 30 minutes away (in spite of the speed bumps on the highway – we still chuckle at that, but people cross the highway on foot all the time and some bumps are strategically placed, others remain a mystery.) And from our 5 minute drive through, even the flame trees were unremarkable. Next to Thika, is Thika town, (go figure) a little more rambly and a lot more rural. It seemed to take uslonger to get through Thika Town than Thika, but soon enough, we were once again in the open country side, heading towards Ol Donyo Sabuk National Park with 14 Falls as our closer destination. As the falls are currently on private property, we pass through a gate with a ticket taker (we had to pay for each of us, the car and a ticket for 1 camera as we didnt mention anything about phones with cameras on them). At 11:30, we joined a couple of other cars, parked on packed earth at the side of the river. There are no signs, or posts, no railings or stairs. That being said, every ‘entrepreneur within walking distance has taken the opportunity to sell their wares or skills. We took in the smell of several cooking fires as people set up their kitchens to serve chipattis, samosas, BBQ’d corn, even french fries!
‘fast food’ literally at the side of the falls
Others offered their services as guides and others as boatmen. We wandered along the edge, admiring the view. 14 Falls is quite seasonal as it can be a single, thunderous torrent across the breadth of the river or a mere trickle in the dry season. We got to see the 14 Falls give or take. The falls are 27m tall and they was very pretty, until we got a closer look. Garbage. Everywhere. Not just the occasional flotsam and jetsom, but tons of waste. Plastic bags, containers, medicine bottles and shoes and shoes and sandals and sandals by the thousands. Everyone claimed it was Nairobi garbage, tossed in the rivers to float North downstream (which seems so upside-down to me). A chorus of ‘not my fault’ and yet no one there picked up a peice of waste on the shores of the river or even in the parking lot. Nor was there a garbage bin anywhere.
14 Falls
14 Falls
Froth and foam at 14 Falls
Gary at 14 Falls
14 Falls
So Gary and William and I wandered (there was no scampering) over the rocks on one side, down to the bottom of the falls were we caught a flat bottomed boat across to the island in the middle. A price is negotiated first, but one pays upon their return.
The boats and boatmen of 14 Falls
As a member of the Luo tribe, William comes from a fishing tradition. Fish is his favorite meal. He had said that he likes to swim, but not in the ocean. So I found it interesting that he was very nervous in the little boat as it was being towed across the water. He was anxious to know how deep it was and was not reassured that it was only 15 – 20 ft deep. There was no need to worry, because there on the island was a
Resue Goat, 14 Falls
He wondered why the boatman didn’t ‘pole’ us over and offered to teach him how to do it. No takers. Our guide, David,. 
took us across the little island in the middle to get a view of the falls from all possible angles. At certains times of the year, the island is completely covered, but now, stumbling across it, we could see little ponds and pools full of garbage and choking out the water hyacinthe. On this warm afternoon, if one was downwind of our guide or the garbage, it was also rather unpleasantly aromatic! I think hDavid took us along the most difficult, treacherous and rather goatlike route. My boaters were a rather poor footwear choice and I immediately regretted not putting on my running shoes as soon as we got out of the car.
Garbage at the bottom of 14 Falls
Cynthia and Gary, 14 Falls
Gary
Eventually, at the other side of the island at the base of the falls, after negotiating the crossing fee (to be paid upon the return trip- was this to provide us comfort in their faith of the bridge) we crossed a rope and branch bridge.
Twig bridge over a torrent of rushing water!
I felt like Kathleen Turner in the Jewel of the Nile, but about twice and old and twice and large and half as nimble! I did, however, manage to scramble quickly across here.
David took my camera to take a few snaps and was not in a rush to return it as he snapped away! William did suggest that I get it back as soon as possible. We climbed up to the other side of the falls.
looking downriver from the top of the falls
David suggested that if we took off our shoes we could walk across the top of the falls back to the other side where we started! What an exciting offer. Well, I could hardly wait to cross the bridge again and besides, it woudn’t be appropriate not to pay the bridge toll or the ferryman, so it wasn’t hard to give up putting bare feet onto slimy rocks in garbage infested water. Not to mention the thought of where one could end up after a slip or fall! David, anxious to please and to earn some extra, offered to dive off the top of the falls. I coudn’t bear the thought of it and declined his generous offer. On our way back across the little island to the ferryboats, he showed us a spring of salt water that runs out of the ground into the river. How very odd.
Back up top on the other side, we pulled out the picnic lunch I had packed and the 3 of us found some shade to eat our sandwiches, chips, fruit and pop. As we were finishing lunch, I spotted this young boy walking along. I asked if I could take his photo. He demurred. In exchange for his photo, I asked if he would like my banana. Yes please, he said quietly and in turn, peeled it and gave it to his baby brother.
He ain’t heavy, he’s my brother.
After our lunch, David re-joined us in the car to accompany us up the road to show us the hippos. At this point in the river, the garbage was actually floating in the currents and eddies in huge islands of garbage. And there, in a large clearing, we could hear the snouts and snorts, and make out the tiny ears and eyes of several mammoth hippos.
garbage upriver (and the rings of water around the hippo (centre)
Unless they are on land, I find them more fun to listen to than to watch. We said thank you and good bye to David there and he trotted back to the falls in search of other clients, as we carried on our way back home.
But first, a road side stop to pick up some pineapple from the Delmonte farm. William negotiated 2 huge pineapples for 200 ksh ($2.40). And then, before we hit the highway, we stopped to by some sugar cane. William insists that much of the cane sold on streetcorners throughout the city, like the roadside corn, isn’t that great. He believes that it is often grown in sewage water, which is certainly enough to put us off trying it. So William selected a huge (5ft) stalk. The men trimmed it with their machetes and then chopped into bite size pieces.
William overseeing the selection and preparation of sugar cane.
I think we had 4 bags of it. We tried a piece in the car. One chews it to get out the sweet sugar water and then spits out the pulp (usually on the street or sidewalk). There was no question it was sweet and juicy but it didn’t really appeal to me (it was like chewing old rope) and it was quite messy and sticky. The pineapple on the other hand was totally sweet and delicious and not the slightest bit prickly!
road side stand
piki piki (bike taxi) stand
Delmonte pineapples for sale. I am not sure how these are ‘procured’.
greenhouses along the side of the highway
Its illegal to have 3 passengars in the front of our car. I’m not sure about the restrictions regarding back of a vehicle! Can you imagine this, speeding down the highway?
We took a little detour enroute home (not sure why) and went through a real downpour, and by the time we returned to the Gem, it was after 5. A pleasant outting. We sent William home early with a pineapple and lots of sugar cane.
Ahoy Africa 