Finding Easter in the Masai Mara

Carmen and Dominic are our closest friends in Nairobi.  We met through their dog Emma, who had a litter of puppies and our relationship grew as one of the puppies, our Tusker, did. Tusker’s energy, enthusiasm and general goofiness belie his 20 months. Surely he should be more mature by now?  But that also means that the four of us have known each other and been friends for that same time.  Where has it gone?  Perhaps living in a foreign country, working in a stressful environment, facing strange and sometimes trying challenges, we don’t waste time or energy with polite courtesies or petty differences.  Perhaps we are more flexible in our criteria of friends (I recall 21 months ago,  Elizabeth L suggesting that I was ‘taking applications for friends’ and thinking that ‘having a pulse’ was my only criteria!) or am I more comfortable at being myself, without all my familiar, but irrelevant armour (where I live, work, went to school, the clothes I wear etc) ? I have been blessed to have met so many diverse and wonderful people and have recognized several kindred spirits and I will hold onto them, in one way or another, for the rest of my life.

It also means that our time is winding up here.  Carmen and Dominik have already booked their final flight home.  Packing lists are being finalized. Details are being sorted.  We all agreed that a weekend away together was in order before departures. Carmen did the legwork, looking into various places.  We landed on the Masai Mara.  The Olare Mara Kempinsky to be exact.  At first, I was a little disappointed that we weren’t going somewhere new, a place that none of us had been before, but it was a different camp in a different location of the Mara and recent news of a very early migration was very exciting.

Easter weekend in Kenya is four days long as both the Friday and the Monday are holidays. We dropped off Tusker at the vet/kennel Thursday night and threw my stuff in a small duffel bag.  Carmen and Dominic picked us up at 7am and we were on our way to Wilson Airport.  Traffic was non-existent and we practically opened the airport 20 minutes later. Lots of time for a cuppa before we left.  And then we were on our way….

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It was an uneventful 45 minute flight to the small airstrip where we were met by our guide/driver Phillip.  A short game drive would take us to the camp for lunch.  The landscape was varied, with open plains and hills, brush and bush and green winding riverbed.
We were greeted warmly

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and shown to our beautiful, luxurious tent.

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The view from our bed.

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Our tent and porch.

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The bathroom, with toilet, shower, two sinks and a clawfoot tub with a view.

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The sitting room of our tent.

 

We got unpacked and settled.  We had lunch and then headed out for an afternoon game drive.

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two young ones playing together

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Poppa looks on

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But then he’s bored.

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Eventually, Mom steps in, or rather sits on, one of the offenders.

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But the wrestling starts again.

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And all that exercise makes one thirsty.

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A young sub adult male, out on his own.

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This kitty leans into a sibling like Tusker leans into anyone.

 

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And keeps leaning…

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A group of eight hungry hyenas, outnumbered by the lions, wait patiently for their turn at the scraps.

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A smaller group of jackals wait as well.

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The foxlike jackal. So pretty.

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We saw lots of antelope, Grants and Thompson’s gazelles, topis, banded mongoose, hippos and plovers.

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We even saw a small elephant family.  2015-04-3-4-5 Massi Mara - with Carmen and Dominec 564 2015-04-3-4-5 Massi Mara - with Carmen and Dominec 582

Rumours of an early migration were not exaggerated.  We saw large herds, restlessly on the move.

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It was exciting to see these animals, following their instinct, following patterns, following food.  But I had never seen wildebeests running and then doing a face plant.

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As we were heading back towards the camp at the end of the afternoon, we came upon the pride of lions again.  This time, the male and one of the females were mating. The male would chase the female for a few feet, mount her, they growl at each other and in less than 30 seconds, its over. Within 5 – 20 minutes, this repeats. It repeats for upto 72 times in a day, for four days.  No breaks, no eating, no drinking. Ensuring the continuance of your progeny is serious and exhausting work.

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We saw this act of survival happen several times, as the sun dropped in the sky.

 

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What a spectacular ending to our day’s safair.  No time for a swim,

 

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but there was time for a luxurious soak in the tub before dinner.

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We went to sleep to the sound of hippos snorting, zebras trotting by, wildebeests grunting and hyenas barking.  Slept like a baby.

Coffee and tea and biscuits were delivered to our tent at 6am and we were off on a damp early morning safari.

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A sub adult lion with his kill, being followed by a jackal and a hyena.

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Wildebeests on the run.

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Can you see the 16 hippos in the muck of this pool?

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Like our previous visits to the Mara, the animals were spectacular, breathtaking and hopefully, memorable for the rest of my life.  But for me, the images I hope stay with me forever, images so special and unique to Africa, are those of the sky.  I have yet to craft with words, what these photos can show.  It is times like this that I wish I could paint and my admiration for artists grows sharper.

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I never tire of looking at these skies.  Another wonderful day, a holiday, animals, scenery and all great friends.

On Easter Sunday morning, we had our final game drive. We returned for breakfast and after breakfast, we planted the African Green Heart tree (see separate post). We rested in our tent again before we had our lunch.  After all, it had been an exhausting morning (not).

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The view from our porch.

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Frank and Safari Gari

 

After lunch each couple was presented with a box of 4 carved kisi stone animals. Included in our set was my favorite, Ngiri (warthog).  Carmen and Dominic’s included a male lion.  What can you say?  We said fond farewells to the great staff at the camp (who apparently loved my ‘shang’ Kiswahili or at least found it highly amusing).

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Our way back to the airport was our final safari drive.

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After the rains

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Going through deep water. The water came up to the top of the hood and started to come in our cab at the back.

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Elephants usually move silently. This time, all we could hear was the squish, squish, squish of their feet in the soggy ground.

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Our final treat was a cheetah.

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What a high note.

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The Aliokombo waiting lounge!

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Carmen and Dominic boarding their plane.

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Heading out the Mara, a rainbow says goodbye. 2015-04-3-4-5 Massi Mara - with Carmen and Dominec 1214
thank you Carmen and Dominic for the most special time in the Masai Mara.

What a gift. xoxox

Maasai Mara revisited – The Musical

We have been so fortunate to have seen and done so many special things in Africa and Kenya in particular.  We are trying to take advantage of as many opportunities as possible.  As a result, there aren’t too many things we have done multiple times. When our visitors come, we are happy to show them around our local (Karen) must sees – the Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage, The AFEW Giraffe Centre, the Karen Blixen Museum and Kazuri beads.  Hell’s Gate is another favorite so we never turn down a chance to hike the gorge with James. Visitors to Kenya should go one at least one or two safaris (each park or reserve is very different) to experience and appreciate Kenya. Unfortunately, safaris are not inexpensive even with our resident’s discount,  so we don’t often join out visitors on all of their safaris.  When Caryl and Glenn were here last month, we visited Samburu, a reserve in the north with unique flora and fauna, that we had not previously been to. However, with Lorne and Tammy, our most recent visitors, we joined them on their safari to the Maasai Mara. Migration is in full swing. The annual wildebeest migration has been heralded as one of the wonders of the natural world and we wanted to experience it first hand.

I made arrangements for the four of us to go Ngerende Riverview, where Gary, Spencer and I had enjoyed our first experience before Christmas. This time, however, we would spare ourselves the bone jarring full day drive and take a 50 minute flight from Wilson Airport to the Musaria landing strip fairly close to the camp. We left the house early and caught the 9:15 flight. Upon touch down, Daniel and Jonah were there to greet us and within minutes we were enjoying a game drive.  Cape Buffalo welcomed us.  We then came upon a large male lion with his  pride including a few young males and one very pregnant female.

Already the difference from our December visit was apparent, with the green vegetation and the masses of animals. Even before we made it to camp, we came across another, smaller pride of lions with three little cubs, tired and hot under the relentless sun and heat.  Naturally, Tammy and I were ready to pick the little fellas up and snuggle them. Look at them, wouldn’t you?

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As Mr Keating, the teacher played by Robin Williams in Dead Poet’s Society said “So avoid using the word ‘very’ because it’s lazy. A man is not very tired, he is exhausted. Don’t use very sad, use morose. Language was invented for one reason, boys—to woo women—and, in that endeavor, laziness will not do.”  It seems that Lorne feels the same way about the word ‘lovely’.  After he made his case for the random overuse of the word, I confess I was startled at how often we uttered the word and given how often we continued to use the word, it was evident that we weren’t even conscious of it.  So we came up with a list of alternative choices that were appropriate to the Mara. Here are some of them : alluring, amazing, astonishing, awesome, breathtaking, beautiful, brilliant, bold,  captivating, delightful, delicious, divine, dramatic, evocative, electric, excellent, fantastic, enchanting, engaging, exquisite, exceptional, fabulous, flawless, fortuitous, great, gorgeous, incredible, lush, majestic, moving, marvelous, magnificent, neat, opulent, omnipresent,  pristine, peaceful, pretty, primordial,  quintessential, quiet, quirky, queer, resplendent (Daniel’s favorite), randy, radiant, relaxing, recalcitrant, stupendous, superlative, surprising, sumptuous, stunning, serendipitous, superb, super, spectacular, serene, splendid, stunning, tantalizing, tempting, teasing, terrific, unparalleled, unsurpassed, unexpected, unforgettable, unbelievable, unequal,  unbelievable, verdant, vibrant, variable, wonderful, wow, wondrous, wide, and welcoming.

In keeping with the theme of what was different, in addition to more descriptive words, certain songs kept coming to mind, hence the Musical.

In the forest, the might forest, the lion sleeps tonight…

Raindrops keep falling on my head

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s’marvellous, s’wonderful,

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Yes, we’ll gather at the river, The beautiful, the beautiful river;
Gather with the saints at the river, That flows by the throne of God.

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I will follow you will you follow me.  All the days and nights that we know will be,  I will stay with you will you stay with me

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Stand by me

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I did it my way…

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What’s new pussy cat, who-o-o-o-oa

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Where you lead, I will follow,

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I have a bone to pick with you.

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Stand by your man

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When a man meets a woman…and Do a little dance, make a little love, get down tonight!

The mating dance

The mating dance

All night long…

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Like most trips to the Mara, we were on the lookout for The Five.

The Big Five – elephant, rhino, lion, leopard, giraffe.

The Cute Five – mongoose, silver backed jackal, sorila, the dik dik and baby anything.

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The Small Five – antelion, elephant shrew, rhino beetle, leopard tortoise, buffalo weaver

The Ugly Five – warthog, marabou stork, baboon, hyena, wildebeest

The Handsome Five – Daniel, Jonah, Simeon, James and Evans (but we thought Gary and Lorne should be included as well!)

I learned that its a ‘journey of giraffes’ when they are moving, a memory of elephants

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and a dazzle of zebras.

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But the most unique, wonderful and special thing about this trip to the Mara was the migration.

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It is a spectacular sight to see hundreds or even thousands of wildebeest on the move.

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The wildebeest migration was an incredible spectacle that was well worth the trip to see it.   But in addition to that, one thing that I never seem to tire of looking at here in Africa, is the sky.  Somehow, the colours seem deeper and richer, the moods more volatile, the changes more dramatic. It is a times like  this I wish I could capture the drama of the skies in paint. Here is what my camera caught.

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A breathtaking time in the Maasai Mara.  Lucky and blessed.